Poinsettia Care

by Webster Arboretum
Poinsettia Care

Keep your poinsettias looking good through Christmas!

Our poinsettia care tips that will help keep your plants looking festive for months to come.

Selection

As many poinsettias are purchased at grocery stores and home improvement centers, they may not have been receiving the best of care since leaving the greenhouses where they were raised.

Poinsettia Bud

When selecting a poinsettia, try to find a plant with tight greenish flower buds. If the buds have turned yellow and have separated, the plant has likely been blooming for a while and may not be at its peak for Christmas.

The small bud clusters known as cyathia, are the actual flowers of a poinsettia, the brightly colored leaves are called bracts.

If the plant’s foil wrapping is in the way, pull it back and look at the lower leaves. If they are yellowing or appear close to dropping off, select a different plant.

Watering

The poinsettias I recently saw at a nearby Tops supermarket were literally floating in their decorative foil wrappings due to over watering.

Once you have your plant home, its best to either remove any foil wrappings or to poke holes in the foil covering the bottom of the pot to allow for drainage.

Poinsettias prefer consistent light watering. They don’t like sitting in water but they really don’t like being left to dry out.

Poke the top of the soil with your finger every few days. If it the soil feels dry to the touch, give the plant a light watering. If your poinsettia has been placed on a saucer, tip out any excess water that accumulates.

It can’t hurt to mist your plants every few days to provide a bit of humidity.

Light and Temperature

Poinsettias are native to Mexico so they prefer as many hours of sunlight a day as possible. While poinsettias can tolerate full sun, indirect light is preferred. They enjoy temperatures between 65 and 70°F but not warmer.

Avoid placing your poinsettia in drafty locations, near frequently opened doorways, or in contact with icy windows. Just to make things more difficult, heating vents, wood burning stoves, and other heat sources should also be avoided.

50°F is about the lowest temperature poinsettias can tolerate, so when bringing your plants home from the store be sure to cover them before bringing them out into the cold air.

Poinsettia Care into the new year

Even though the stockings, ornaments, and inflatable grinches will be packed away, your poinsettia can remain a bright accent in your home for months to come.

Fertilize your poinsettia about once a month. I use Sea Magic Seaweed fertilizer on all my houseplants.

By late February or early March, if your plant begins to drop leaves and is looking a little worse for wear, cut the plants flowering stems back to about 6 inches in length to promote new growth.

If all is going well, just prior to the start of summer, repot your poinsettia into a container 2″-3″ larger.

During the summer, place your poinsettia on a nice sunny porch or similar location, as your plant will benefit from the outdoor humidity.

With any luck you will have a healthy but green bracted poinsettia.

Photoperiodic Induction

In order for poinsettias to achieve that familiar bright red color, they need darkness, at least 12-14 hours of absolute, uninterrupted darkness every night. Even the briefest flash of light can interfere with the process.

September 10th is the optimal date to begin the photoperiodic induction process in order to have a bright red poinsettia by Christmas.

During the day, the plant will still require bright light for about 8-10 hours to stay healthy.

From scratch

Most commercial growers produce their hybrid poinsettias from stem cuttings, but it is possible to grow poinsettias from seed but they rarely resemble their parent. Seeds also require a period of cold-stratification for the seeds to germinate.

Enjoy your poinettias!

Merry Christmas from all of us here at Shortmeadows.

Seed Bombs

by Angie
Seed Bombs

How to make your own seed bombs

When seed bombs or seed balls began gaining popularity about a dozen years ago, their intent was considerably more radical than it is today. People would make simple earthen seed bombs and toss them where ever they saw a need for flowers, regardless of whose property they were on. The term “guerrilla gardening” was coined.

In reality, in weed ladened or heavily compressed soils wildflower seeds have little chance of germinating.

Here’s something more of a decorative approach, perfect for stocking stuffers or just a little fun.

Ingredients

Non-Toxic Air Dry Clay (5lbs) amazon
Air Dry Clay Matt Varnish (50ml) amazon
Natural Color Pressed Dried Flowers (80 pcs) amazon
Organic Potting Soil amazon
Heirloom Black Eyed Susan Seeds (500) amazon seed cos.

Tools

Parchment paper amazon
Small paint brush amazon

Air Dry Clay for Seed Bomb

Instructions

Grab a handful of air dry clay and roll it into a ball. This will give you a sense of the size of your seed ball. Ideally, it should be close to the size of a golf ball.

With the palm of your hand, smash the ball flat and then using your fingers nurse it into the shape of a shallow bowl. To avoid getting any oil residue from the clay on to your work surface, consider placing a sheet of parchment paper or similar between the table and clay.

Place a small amount of soil in the center of the clay bowl you’ve created. It take surprisingly little soil. Too much and it will easily overflow the clay bowl.

Make a small indentation in the center of the soil and then place seeds into the center of the indentation. The number of seeds required can vary depending on what type of seed you are using. I used about 6 to 8 Black Eyed Susan seeds per ball.

Carefully pinch the clay up over the soil. Once the soil is completely contained within the clay, the ball can be gently rolled between your hands to make it rounder. If a hole appears, add a touch more clay and smooth it into place.

Completed Seed Bomb

Decorating

Squirt a small amount of the matt finish into the lid of the matt finish container or use similar sized receptacle.

Using a paint brush, paint a thin layer of matt finish, over the area you intend to adhere a dried flower.

Still using the paint brush and making sure its only slightly damp, place the point of the paint brush on to a dried flower. The flower should stick to the paint brush and lift away from its sheet. The dried flowers I purchased came with tweezers, but I found the paint brush works better.

Position the flower on the portion of the ball you covered in matt finish. Carefully coat the flower with a generous layer of matt finish until all parts of the flower are flat against the ball and adhered.

Follow your whim. Stop at one flower or add more until you’re happy with the seed balls appearance.

Allow the ball to dry for two to three days. Voila!

Planting Garlic

by Webster Arboretum

Planting Garlic

With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.

For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!

Butterfly Conservation

by Webster Arboretum
Butterfly Conservation. No garden truly blooms until butterflies have danced upon it

Highway 13 Butterfly Conservation Trail

An exciting new Butterfly conservation project is taking shape in the state of Missouri. A nearly 300 mile corridor between the cities of Bethany and Branson is being developed along the path of Highway 13 to provide aid to local pollinators and provide a migratory route for traveling Monarch Butterflies.

Along the trail, carefully selected native wildflowers and grasses including milkweed, purple coneflowers, goldenrod, and bee balm are being planted. The hope is that by planting native species in strategic locations like rest stops, roadside plots, public parks, a continuous path of habitat supporting monarch butterflies, native bees, hummingbirds, and other essential pollinators can be established.

Other Butterfly Trails

Asheville Butterfly Trail
beecityasheville.org/avl-butterfly-trail
Rosalynn Carter Butterfly Trail
rosalynncarterbutterflytrail.org/

Parks for Pollinators

Parks for Pollinators is a advocacy campaign created by the National Recreation and Park Association (NRPA) that encourages education about the current plight of pollinators due to loss of habitat, pesticide use, and other factors. The NRPA hopes to inspire local action and park participation that advances native habitats and pollinator health. Locally, the Highland Park Conservancy is a member of the NRPA that works to further the principles of the organization.

Butterfly Conservation. Hojack Trail July 22
Hojack Trail, August 22

Meanwhile, here in Webster….

The images above were both taken on the Hojack trail. The photo of the Monarch butterfly was taken in the last week of July 2022. The photo of the mowed trail was taken at the same location just over a week later.

Two to three times each summer the Hojack trail is heavily cutback, removing the majority of pollinator plants that populate the edges of the trail. The mowing not only removes a source of food for butterflies and other pollinators, it destroys the young caterpillars growing in the plant-life along the trail. The milkweed, spicebush, and sassafras may comeback for a time, but the mowing process has consistently spread highly invasive swallow-wort further and further down the trail.

The mowing is not limited to the Hojack trail. The milkweed edging the ponds at Charles E. Sexton Memorial Park (North Ponds) are usually mowed down the week before the annual Waterfront festival in late July. Similar mowing is done at other parks within the Webster parks system. Sadly, even the Webster Arboretum Association consistently removes millweed plants from their gardens.

Consider planting a pollinator garden in your yard!

Our Campari Experiment

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Our Campari Experiment

As an experiment, we started Campari seedlings indoors in March, from tomatoes purchased at Wegmans.

If you’re not familiar with Campari tomatoes, they are a sweet, juicy, cocktail-sized tomato (about 1 1/2–2 inches in diameter), found in clear plastic containers at most supermarkets. Wegmans tomatoes are usually sourced from Canada and Mexico.

Campari tomatoes are the world’s first branded tomato. They were developed by Mastronardi Produce, a 4th generation, commercial greenhouse grower headquartered in Kingsville, Ontario, Canada. The tomatoes are sold under their Sunset Grown and Backyard Farms brands as well as multiple store brands.

The tomatoes are non-GMO hybrids grown in state of the art greenhouses. As such, it’s difficult to predict what growing the seeds in a backyard garden will produce.

Practicality aside, its always fun to experiment just to see what happens.

Summer Update

We have Campari tomatoes!

The yield isn’t huge and the tomatoes are slightly smaller than the ones purchased from Wegmans. The taste however is still great!

Mosquito Control

by Webster Arboretum
Mosquito Control

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about mosquitoes, biting flies, or ticks. Wouldn’t we all like a simple, straightforward method of mosquito control that eliminates them from our yards and lives?

Pyrethroids to the rescue!

You may have seen the promotions, either stuffed in your mailbox, on signs in neighbors yards, or possibly through a knock at your door.

No need to worry, it’s Mosquito Bob, or was it Ray, or Charlie to the rescue. A simple monthly visit and a cloud of pyrethroid spray and all your insect problems will be a distant memory.

Alas, experience teaches us that the miracle claims made by many advertisers take great liberties with the truth.

Anything for a buck

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about the companies that spray for mosquitos in residential neighborhoods.

Pest control companies know the dangers associated with their services. Yet they play upon our fears of potential mosquito and tick born illnesses, highlight the joys of hanging out in your backyard, and make little to no mention of the damage to the environment their “miracle sprays” cause.

Mosquito control services typically use chemicals like bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, deltamethrin, and permethrin which are all synthetic variations of pyrethrins, known as pyrethroids.

Pyrethroids are broad spectrum insecticides, meaning they do not discriminate between the insects we value and the insects we dislike.

Pyrethroids can persist in the environment for several months harming any insect that comes into contact with them. Monthly application of the chemicals only furthers the damage.

Bees, butterflies, caterpillars, dragonflies, earthworms, fireflies, ladybugs, spiders and thousands of other insect species die when they come in contact with pyrethroids.

The chemicals are also extremely toxic to aquatic organisms, especially fish and crustaceans. We might also mention that cats lack the ability to breakdown pyrethroids which can cause toxic levels of build-up in their systems.

Mosquito control companies will tell you the chemicals they use are safe. That they are derived from pretty little chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrins are indeed found in chrysanthemum flowers, however, pyrethroids merely mimic the characteristics of pyrethrins, they are synthetic creations designed in a laboratory to be far more toxic and longer-lasting than their natural counterparts.

When prodded, they will swear they carefully avoid spraying flowering plants that attract pollinators. However, bees and other pollinators are often found on clover plants down amongst the grass. Many butterfly species lay their eggs on a variety of plants and trees. Many insects land on a wide variety of plants for the purpose of rest and ironically, safety. Wind can also cause pesticide drift, coating far more than targeted areas of the garden. Additionally, rain causes chemical runoff into creeks, streams, and waterways impacting fish and crustaceans.

Mosquito control services are highly profitable as recurring visits and monthly charges are often required. Numerous companies have popped up in the past 10 years and many lawn care companies have added it to their repertoire. Large scale marketing campaigns have increased the popularity of the service, as most of their customers are seemingly oblivious to the damage the service is causing to the environment.

Many farms use pyrethroids extensively. The EPA recommends farms clear flowering weeds in close proximity to their fields to reduce pollinator deaths due to drift from sprays. A drive through the country will quickly show that some farms follow the EPA recommendation, while others do not.

Insect and bird populations have been declining drastically in recent years. The situation is complex, but pesticides play a considerable role. With fewer insects there is less food available to insect eating birds. Many of the insects birds do eat contain measurable levels of pesticides.

We ask you to please consider not using insecticides of any kind on your property.

Alternatives and Recommendations

Fans

Alfredo Salkeld of the Buddha Bee Apiary recommends purchasing several electric floor fans for those evenings outdoors. “Wind may interfere with the mosquito’s ability to fly, but a fan on medium to high can also help disperse and dilute the carbon dioxide your body expels. And carbon dioxide attracts mosquitos.”

Native Plants and water

Planting water loving native plants like Button bushes, Cardinal flowers, and Swamp Milkweed not only attract pollinators but reduces the amount of standing water on your property.

Maintenance
  • Clean your gutters and other areas where water collects.
  • Use water circulating pumps in small ponds and water features.
  • Keep your lawn mowed to discourage ticks from moving into your yard.
BTI

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis is a bacterium that naturally occurs in soil and is only toxic to mosquito and black fly larvae. It can be purchased as granules that can be sprinkled in areas that are frequently damp. It is a far more targeted and effective way of controlling mosquitoes. The best known brand goes by the name “Mosquito Bits“.

Action

Consider contacting your state senator or assembly member to recommend legislation banning mosquito fogging and spraying in residential areas. (If you’re not in Webster, find your senator or assembly member.)

Currently the only active legislation in New York State related to Mosquito spraying is targeted to prohibiting aerial and ground application of malathion and certain pyrethroid-based insecticides near schools, day cares, and parks.

If you use a landscape or lawn care company, consider using a company that does not promote the use of mosquito fogs and sprays or encourage them to discontinue offering mosquito control services.

Create a pollinator garden in your yard. It will not only provide a lot of beauty, but it will be helping butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds.

Stay tuned

This is not a one off post. This is important and we will continue to advocate for bees, butterflies, fireflies, and other important insects.

Further reading:

State of the Birds, Cornell University 2025
What You Need to Know Before Spraying for Mosquitoes, Mizejewski and Weber 2025
A Systematic Review of Insect Decline and Discovery, Hailay and Gebremariam 2024
Spring into Action Against Mosquitoes, Aaron Anderson 2023
Nearly 3 Billion Birds Gone, Cornell Labs 2019
Effects of mosquito sprays on humans, pets, and wildlife, Colin Purrington 2018

Niagara on the Lake

by Webster Arboretum
Visual Portfolio, Posts & Image Gallery for WordPress
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Photos from a recent visit to Niagara on the Lake for the Shaw Festival and the Niagara on the Lake Horticultural Society‘s Annual Garden Tour.

We saw “Tons of Money” at the Royal George Theatre. Not the most advertised show at this year’s festival, but it was absolutely fabulous. A truly fun show. Mike Nadajewski and Julia Course kept the audience engaged from the opening curtain until the final bows.

Niagra on the Lake Shaw Festival - Tons of Money 2025
Julie Course and Mike Nadajewski, stars of Tons of Money

Quickies

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Short answers to some of your recent questions

Hi Zoe,

I’ve had a wisteria growing in my garden for close to 7 years now, and it still hasn’t flowered. Any guesses?

Marty C.

Hi Marty,
Despite the 7 years, in many cases the wisteria plant is still too young to flower. Grafted wisteria plants will flower much sooner than wisteria grown from seed. It’s usually best to buy a wisteria plant when its flowering to avoid endless annual anticipation.

Other issues could be a lack of sunlight (Wisteria loves to sunbathe!), poor soil health, or improper pruning.

Hope it flowers soon!

Hi Zoe,

Can I grow a new clematis from cuttings?

Cynthia H.

Hi Cynthia,
Yes! Select a a stem in with healthy new growth, cut it just below a leave node preserving one leaf and about a 3 to 4 inch of stem.

Brush a small amount of rooting hormone on the lower end of the cutting. Prepare a small pot with damp, sandy potting soil.

Using a pencil or similar, create a vertical hole in the soil deep enough to accommodate your stem. Place the stem in the soil and cover the pot with a plastic sandwich bag. Place in indirect sunlight, keeping the soil damp, but not too wet.

Allow the cutting to overwinter in a protected area below 40 degrees. With any luck, you’ll be planting your new clematis in the garden come spring.

Happy Growing!

Zoe,

Can you recommend a zero-turn lawn mower?

Carol J.

Hi Carol,
I could…but it would be utterly pointless as I don’t own one.

Zoe,

Is it too late to plant poppies?

Mary R.

Hi Mary,
Unfortunately, June is likely a bit late to be planting poppies. Poppies need at least a couple weeks of cold in order to germinate. Most garden centers don’t carry perennial varieties until the fall. I’d suggest waiting until then. Annual seeds can be scattered on top of the soil in late fall or early spring. Perennials will benefit from over wintering in your garden.

Hi Zoe,

Where do you buy your plants?

Renee M.

Hi Renee,
It’s always a pleasure to explore our local garden centers. In Webster I’m fond of Bauman’s, but if I’m on the road I seldom miss a chance to stop at the Garden Factory or Sara’s in Brockport.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Scarlet Lily Beetles

by Zoe

Hey Zoe,

For the past few weeks I’ve noticed these bright red beetles on my lilies causing all kinds of damage. What should I do?

Lucy W.

Hi Lucy,
What you are likely seeing is the Scarlet Lily Beetle (Lilioceris lilii). While attractive at first glace, scarlet lily beetles are horribly destructive. They first appeared in New York State around 2012 after being accidentally imported to Canada in the late 1940s.

Scarlet lily beetles and their larvae, can defoliate Asiatic, Oriental, Martagon and similar lily species, causing strain to the plant and adversely affecting its appearance. At least they don’t bother daylilies.

Here are hopefully a few effective organic methods to manage scarlet lily beetles.

Identification and Timing

  • Appearance: Adults are 6–8 mm long, bright red with black heads, legs, and undersides. They drop and flip upside down when disturbed, blending into soil. Larvae are orange-brown, slug-like, and cover themselves with black excrement, feeding voraciously on leaf undersides.
  • Lifecycle: Adults emerge in early spring (April–May), lay 250–450 red eggs in rows on leaf undersides, and larvae hatch in 4–8 days, feeding for 16–24 days before pupating in soil. A second generation may appear in mid-summer. They overwinter as adults in soil or debris.
Scarlet Lily Beetle
Soapy Water

Organic Control Methods

Hand-Picking:

  • Tools: An old pickle or jam jar filled with warm soapy water and a medium sized artist’s paint brush.
  • How: Check plants early morning when beetles are sluggish. When you spot a beetle or larvae on a lily leaf, hold the jar of soapy water beneath the leaf and brush the beetle into the water. Works well for Japanese Beetles infestations as well.
  • Frequency: Every 2–3 days, focusing on undersides and leaf-stem junctions.

Egg and Larvae Removal:

  • How: Inspect leaf undersides for red egg rows and larvae. Remove with a brush in a similar manner. Don’t touch the larvae, their excrement coating is gross!
  • Frequency: Twice weekly during June–July when eggs and larvae peak.

Traps and Barriers:

  • Grapefruit Rinds: Place rinds near lilies to attract beetles, check daily, and dispose of in warm soapy water. This could double as a slug control.
  • Diatomaceous Earth (DE): Sprinkle food-grade DE around lily bases (1-inch band). It dehydrates beetles and larvae on contact. Reapply after rain.

Encourage Natural Predators:

  • How: Attract birds (e.g., via a birdbath or feeder), frogs, or ground beetles by avoiding pesticides. Parasitoid wasps (e.g., Tetrastichus setifer) are being introduced in some areas and may eventually reach NY, targeting beetle larvae.

Neem Oil (I don’t use it, but if you’re short on time):

  • How: Apply neem oil (mixed with water and a drop of soap) every 5–7 days, covering all leaf surfaces, especially undersides. Continue through the summer.
  • Caution: Use early morning or late evening to avoid harming pollinators. Test on a small area first.
  • Does it work?: Some report limited success.

Additional Tips

  • Sanitation: Remove plant debris and loosen the top 2–3 inches of soil around lilies after the first frost (October) to disrupt overwintering adults.
  • Resistant Varieties: If damage persists, consider lilies like ‘Defender Pink’ or species like Lilium henryi ‘Madame Butterfly’, which show some resistance. Avoid replacing all lilies—your garden’s diversity is a strength.
  • Avoid Chemicals: Insecticides (e.g., permethrin) work but could also harm birds and beneficial insects.

Reality Check

Hand-picking is labor-intensive but effective for a small garden. Some gardeners report cyclical declines after years of diligence, suggesting persistence pays off. If beetles overwhelm despite efforts, reducing lily numbers or switching to resistant types might be pragmatic, though it’s a last resort given their beauty.

Have a question? Ask Zoe.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

by Zoe
Ask Zoe

Hi Zoe,

Why are the lower leaves on my tomato plants turning yellow? I’ve been growing tomatoes for years and don’t remember my tomatoes ever doing this.

Yvonne T.

Hi Yvonne,
Given the current warm weather and recent May-June rains, its possible the yellowing could be a result of overly saturated soil.

That said, its not uncommon for the lower leaves of tomato plants to naturally yellow as plant resources are directed toward new growth.

In a more typical, less rainy spring, yellowing lower leaves on your tomato plants could be due to several common issues.

Yellowing Tomato Leaves

Possible Causes

Natural Aging:

  • Reason: Lower leaves naturally yellow and drop as the plant matures, redirecting energy to fruit production. This is normal, especially mid-season (June).
  • Check: If only the oldest, bottom leaves are affected and the plant looks healthy otherwise (green upper leaves, fruit setting), it’s likely not a problem.
  • Action: Trim yellow leaves with clean shears to improve airflow, but don’t overdo it—remove no more than 1/3 of foliage.

Watering Issues:

  • Overwatering: Excess moisture from recent rains or overzealous watering can cause root rot, leading to yellowing. Tomatoes prefer consistent moisture but dislike soggy soil.
  • Underwatering: Dry spells between rains can stress plants, causing lower leaves to yellow first.
  • Check: Soil should be moist 1–2 inches deep but not waterlogged. Test by sticking a finger in—if it’s soggy or bone-dry, adjust.
  • Action: Water 1–2 inches per week if rain is insufficient, ensuring good drainage (e.g., raised bed edges). Mulch with straw or black mulch to retain moisture.

Nutrient Deficiency:

  • Nitrogen: Lack of nitrogen causes yellowing, starting at lower leaves, as it’s pulled upward for new growth.
  • Check: Pale yellow leaves with stunted growth suggest nitrogen deficiency. Soil test kits (available at Garden Factory) can confirm.
  • Action: Apply a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost. Avoid over-fertilizing, which can burn roots.

Disease:

  • Early Blight: Common in humid climates like Webster, this fungal issue (Alternaria solani) causes yellowing with brown spots and concentric rings on lower leaves.
  • Fusarium or Verticillium Wilt: These fungal diseases block water uptake, yellowing leaves and wilting stems. Look for wilting despite moist soil.
  • Check: Inspect for spots or wilting. Early blight thrives in wet foliage; wilts show vascular browning if stems are cut.
  • Action: Remove affected leaves (bag and discard, don’t compost). Use fungicide (e.g., copper-based) if severe, and space plants 2–3 ft apart for airflow. Rotate crops next year.

Pests:

  • Aphids or Whiteflies: These can suck sap, weakening leaves and causing yellowing.
  • Check: Look under leaves for tiny bugs or sticky residue.
  • Action: Spray with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Encourage ladybugs or lacewings.

Here in Webster

  • Weather: Recent rains may have oversaturated soil, especially if drainage is poor. Check your bed’s slope or add organic matter to improve it.
  • Soil: Webster’s clay-heavy soil can retain too much water, exacerbating root issues. Mixing in sand or compost could help.

Next Steps

  • Prioritize: Start with watering and aging checks—most likely culprits. If persistent, inspect for disease or pests.
  • Monitor: Yellowing should stabilize with proper care. If it spreads upward or includes wilting, suspect disease.
  • Prevention: Stake plants to lift foliage, reducing soil contact and disease risk.

Hope this helps!
Zoe

Have a question? Ask Zoe.