Author: Webster Arboretum

Planting Garlic

by Webster Arboretum

Planting Garlic

With the warmer weather we’ve been having there’s still time to plant garlic for next year.

For our northern climate, hardneck garlic is preferable. Plant in an area that receives full sun and has well drained rich loamy soil. Separate the cloves just prior to planting. Make sure not to peel them as the skins can help prevent rot. Plant each clove approximately 2 to 3 inches deep, root side down and pointed tip up. Space each clove about 6 inches apart. We add several handfuls of compost to the bottom of each hole. That’s it until spring!

Butterfly Conservation

by Webster Arboretum
Butterfly Conservation. No garden truly blooms until butterflies have danced upon it

Highway 13 Butterfly Conservation Trail

An exciting new Butterfly conservation project is taking shape in the state of Missouri. A nearly 300 mile corridor between the cities of Bethany and Branson is being developed along the path of Highway 13 to provide aid to local pollinators and provide a migratory route for traveling Monarch Butterflies.

Along the trail, carefully selected native wildflowers and grasses including milkweed, purple coneflowers, goldenrod, and bee balm are being planted. The hope is that by planting native species in strategic locations like rest stops, roadside plots, public parks, a continuous path of habitat supporting monarch butterflies, native bees, hummingbirds, and other essential pollinators can be established.

Other Butterfly Trails

Asheville Butterfly Trail
beecityasheville.org/avl-butterfly-trail
Rosalynn Carter Butterfly Trail
rosalynncarterbutterflytrail.org/

Parks for Pollinators

Parks for Pollinators is a advocacy campaign created by the National Recreation and Park Association (NRPA) that encourages education about the current plight of pollinators due to loss of habitat, pesticide use, and other factors. The NRPA hopes to inspire local action and park participation that advances native habitats and pollinator health. Locally, the Highland Park Conservancy is a member of the NRPA that works to further the principles of the organization.

Butterfly Conservation. Hojack Trail July 22
Hojack Trail, August 22

Meanwhile, here in Webster….

The images above were both taken on the Hojack trail. The photo of the Monarch butterfly was taken in the last week of July 2022. The photo of the mowed trail was taken at the same location just over a week later.

Two to three times each summer the Hojack trail is heavily cutback, removing the majority of pollinator plants that populate the edges of the trail. The mowing not only removes a source of food for butterflies and other pollinators, it destroys the young caterpillars growing in the plant-life along the trail. The milkweed, spicebush, and sassafras may comeback for a time, but the mowing process has consistently spread highly invasive swallow-wort further and further down the trail.

The mowing is not limited to the Hojack trail. The milkweed edging the ponds at Charles E. Sexton Memorial Park (North Ponds) are usually mowed down the week before the annual Waterfront festival in late July. Similar mowing is done at other parks within the Webster parks system. Sadly, even the Webster Arboretum Association consistently removes millweed plants from their gardens.

Consider planting a pollinator garden in your yard!

Our Campari Experiment

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Our Campari Experiment

As an experiment, we started Campari seedlings indoors in March, from tomatoes purchased at Wegmans.

If you’re not familiar with Campari tomatoes, they are a sweet, juicy, cocktail-sized tomato (about 1 1/2–2 inches in diameter), found in clear plastic containers at most supermarkets. Wegmans tomatoes are usually sourced from Canada and Mexico.

Campari tomatoes are the world’s first branded tomato. They were developed by Mastronardi Produce, a 4th generation, commercial greenhouse grower headquartered in Kingsville, Ontario, Canada. The tomatoes are sold under their Sunset Grown and Backyard Farms brands as well as multiple store brands.

The tomatoes are non-GMO hybrids grown in state of the art greenhouses. As such, it’s difficult to predict what growing the seeds in a backyard garden will produce.

Practicality aside, its always fun to experiment just to see what happens.

Summer Update

We have Campari tomatoes!

The yield isn’t huge and the tomatoes are slightly smaller than the ones purchased from Wegmans. The taste however is still great!

Mosquito Control

by Webster Arboretum
Mosquito Control

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about mosquitoes, biting flies, or ticks. Wouldn’t we all like a simple, straightforward method of mosquito control that eliminates them from our yards and lives?

Pyrethroids to the rescue!

You may have seen the promotions, either stuffed in your mailbox, on signs in neighbors yards, or possibly through a knock at your door.

No need to worry, it’s Mosquito Bob, or was it Ray, or Charlie to the rescue. A simple monthly visit and a cloud of pyrethroid spray and all your insect problems will be a distant memory.

Alas, experience teaches us that the miracle claims made by many advertisers take great liberties with the truth.

Anything for a buck

It’s difficult to find anything good to say about the companies that spray for mosquitos in residential neighborhoods.

Pest control companies know the dangers associated with their services. Yet they play upon our fears of potential mosquito and tick born illnesses, highlight the joys of hanging out in your backyard, and make little to no mention of the damage to the environment their “miracle sprays” cause.

Mosquito control services typically use chemicals like bifenthrin, cyhalothrin, deltamethrin, and permethrin which are all synthetic variations of pyrethrins, known as pyrethroids.

Pyrethroids are broad spectrum insecticides, meaning they do not discriminate between the insects we value and the insects we dislike.

Pyrethroids can persist in the environment for several months harming any insect that comes into contact with them. Monthly application of the chemicals only furthers the damage.

Bees, butterflies, caterpillars, dragonflies, earthworms, fireflies, ladybugs, spiders and thousands of other insect species die when they come in contact with pyrethroids.

The chemicals are also extremely toxic to aquatic organisms, especially fish and crustaceans. We might also mention that cats lack the ability to breakdown pyrethroids which can cause toxic levels of build-up in their systems.

Mosquito control companies will tell you the chemicals they use are safe. That they are derived from pretty little chrysanthemum flowers. Pyrethrins are indeed found in chrysanthemum flowers, however, pyrethroids merely mimic the characteristics of pyrethrins, they are synthetic creations designed in a laboratory to be far more toxic and longer-lasting than their natural counterparts.

When prodded, they will swear they carefully avoid spraying flowering plants that attract pollinators. However, bees and other pollinators are often found on clover plants down amongst the grass. Many butterfly species lay their eggs on a variety of plants and trees. Many insects land on a wide variety of plants for the purpose of rest and ironically, safety. Wind can also cause pesticide drift, coating far more than targeted areas of the garden. Additionally, rain causes chemical runoff into creeks, streams, and waterways impacting fish and crustaceans.

Mosquito control services are highly profitable as recurring visits and monthly charges are often required. Numerous companies have popped up in the past 10 years and many lawn care companies have added it to their repertoire. Large scale marketing campaigns have increased the popularity of the service, as most of their customers are seemingly oblivious to the damage the service is causing to the environment.

Many farms use pyrethroids extensively. The EPA recommends farms clear flowering weeds in close proximity to their fields to reduce pollinator deaths due to drift from sprays. A drive through the country will quickly show that some farms follow the EPA recommendation, while others do not.

Insect and bird populations have been declining drastically in recent years. The situation is complex, but pesticides play a considerable role. With fewer insects there is less food available to insect eating birds. Many of the insects birds do eat contain measurable levels of pesticides.

We ask you to please consider not using insecticides of any kind on your property.

Alternatives and Recommendations

Fans

Alfredo Salkeld of the Buddha Bee Apiary recommends purchasing several electric floor fans for those evenings outdoors. “Wind may interfere with the mosquito’s ability to fly, but a fan on medium to high can also help disperse and dilute the carbon dioxide your body expels. And carbon dioxide attracts mosquitos.”

Native Plants and water

Planting water loving native plants like Button bushes, Cardinal flowers, and Swamp Milkweed not only attract pollinators but reduces the amount of standing water on your property.

Maintenance
  • Clean your gutters and other areas where water collects.
  • Use water circulating pumps in small ponds and water features.
  • Keep your lawn mowed to discourage ticks from moving into your yard.
BTI

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis is a bacterium that naturally occurs in soil and is only toxic to mosquito and black fly larvae. It can be purchased as granules that can be sprinkled in areas that are frequently damp. It is a far more targeted and effective way of controlling mosquitoes. The best known brand goes by the name “Mosquito Bits“.

Action

Consider contacting your state senator or assembly member to recommend legislation banning mosquito fogging and spraying in residential areas. (If you’re not in Webster, find your senator or assembly member.)

Currently the only active legislation in New York State related to Mosquito spraying is targeted to prohibiting aerial and ground application of malathion and certain pyrethroid-based insecticides near schools, day cares, and parks.

If you use a landscape or lawn care company, consider using a company that does not promote the use of mosquito fogs and sprays or encourage them to discontinue offering mosquito control services.

Create a pollinator garden in your yard. It will not only provide a lot of beauty, but it will be helping butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds.

Stay tuned

This is not a one off post. This is important and we will continue to advocate for bees, butterflies, fireflies, and other important insects.

Further reading:

State of the Birds, Cornell University 2025
What You Need to Know Before Spraying for Mosquitoes, Mizejewski and Weber 2025
A Systematic Review of Insect Decline and Discovery, Hailay and Gebremariam 2024
Spring into Action Against Mosquitoes, Aaron Anderson 2023
Nearly 3 Billion Birds Gone, Cornell Labs 2019
Effects of mosquito sprays on humans, pets, and wildlife, Colin Purrington 2018

Niagara on the Lake

by Webster Arboretum
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Photos from a recent visit to Niagara on the Lake for the Shaw Festival and the Niagara on the Lake Horticultural Society‘s Annual Garden Tour.

We saw “Tons of Money” at the Royal George Theatre. Not the most advertised show at this year’s festival, but it was absolutely fabulous. A truly fun show. Mike Nadajewski and Julia Course kept the audience engaged from the opening curtain until the final bows.

Niagra on the Lake Shaw Festival - Tons of Money 2025
Julie Course and Mike Nadajewski, stars of Tons of Money

Growing Tomatoes

by Webster Arboretum
Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Growing tomatoes in Webster, NY (Zone 6a) requires attention to climate, soil, and timing! Tomatoes thrive in warm weather, with at least 6–8 hours of sun, well-drained soil, and consistent care. Here are our suggestions to maximize your harvest.

1. Timing and Starting

  • Start Date: Mid-May is ideal for planting tomatoes in Webster. The last frost is typically early May (around May 5–10), and soil temperatures should be above 60°F (check with a soil thermometer). Nighttime temps should consistently be above 50°F, which they likely are by May 15.
  • Transplants vs. Seeds: In May, use transplants (4–6-week-old seedlings) for a faster harvest. If you haven’t started your seeds, by May its too late in the season (they’re better started indoors in March). Buy healthy, stocky plants (6–10 inches tall) from a local nursery. Look for varieties suited to Zone 6a.

2. Choosing Varieties

  • Best for Webster:
  • Early Girl (50–60 days to harvest): Quick-maturing, good for cooler climates, medium-sized fruit.
  • Jet Star (70 days): Disease-resistant, prolific, great flavor, medium-large fruit.
  • Big Beef (73 days): Large, flavorful beefsteak, performs well in Zone 6a.
  • Sungold (57 days): Sweet cherry tomatoes, high-yield, hummingbirds may visit blossoms.
  • Determinate vs. Indeterminate:
  • Determinate (e.g., Early Girl): Compact, set fruit all at once, good for small spaces.
  • Indeterminate (e.g., Sungold, Big Beef): Grow/vine all season, produce until frost, need more support but yield more over time.
  • For a small space, try 1–2 indeterminate plants (like Sungold for snacking) and 1 determinate (like Early Girl for a quick harvest).

3. Site and Soil Prep

  • Location: Pick a sunny spot with 6–8 hours of direct sun.
  • Soil:
  • Type: Tomatoes need well-drained, loamy soil with pH 6.0–6.8 (test with a kit; adjust with lime to raise pH or sulfur to lower).
  • Amendments: Mix in 2–3 inches of compost or aged manure to boost fertility. Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from adding perlite or sand for drainage.
  • Spacing: Plant your tomato plants 2–3 ft apart (e.g., 2 ft for Sungold, 3 ft for Big Beef) to allow air circulation and reduce disease.

4. Planting

  • Depth: Dig a deep hole or trench (8–10 inches). Strip lower leaves and plant so only the top 2–4 inches of the stem are above ground—roots will form along the buried stem, making the plant sturdier.
  • Support: Install stakes, cages, or trellises at planting time (avoid damaging roots later). Indeterminate varieties like Sungold need a 5–6 ft stake or cage. Determinate ones like Early Girl can use a 4 ft cage.
  • Companion Planting: Tomatoes pair well with marigolds (repel pests) or basil (improves flavor, deters insects). Plant these nearby but avoid overcrowding.

5. Care and Maintenance

  • Watering: Water deeply (1–2 inches per week) at the base, not overhead, to prevent fungal diseases like blight. Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy. Mulch with 2 inches of straw or shredded bark to retain moisture and keep soil temperature stable.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Add a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea.
  • During growth: Side-dress with a high-phosphorus fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) when flowers form, then every 3–4 weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers after flowering—they promote leaves over fruit.
  • Pruning: For indeterminate varieties, pinch off suckers (small shoots between the main stem and branches) to focus energy on fruit. Leave determinate varieties unpruned.
  • Pest/Disease:
  • Common pests in Webster: Aphids, hornworms. Hand-pick hornworms; use insecticidal soap for aphids.
  • Diseases: Early blight (brown spots on leaves) is common in humid summers. Use drip irrigation, ensure good air circulation, and apply a copper-based fungicide if needed.
  • Deer: If deer are an issue (common in Webster), use netting or plant deer-repellent marigolds nearby.

6. Harvest and Timing

  • When: Harvest starts ~60–80 days from planting (mid-July to early August for Early Girl, late August for Big Beef). Pick when fruits are fully colored and slightly soft to the touch.
  • Frost Protection: First frost in Webster is ~October 5–15. Cover plants with row covers or bring potted tomatoes indoors if frost threatens before harvest is done.
  • Yield: Expect 5–10 lbs per plant for determinate varieties, 10–15 lbs for indeterminate, depending on care and weather.

Local Tips for Growing Tomatoes in Webster

  • Weather: July–August can hit 85°F with humidity. Mulch heavily and water in the morning to prevent leaf scorch.
  • Nurseries: Most garden centers have tomato transplants in the spring. Many also sell cages and organic fertilizers.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County offers free tomato-growing workshops—check their website or call (585-461-1000).

Quick Timeline

  • May 13–15: Buy transplants, prep soil, plant, install supports.
  • June: Water, fertilize, prune suckers, monitor pests.
  • July–August: Harvest begins (Early Girl first). Keep watering, fertilizing.
  • September–October: Harvest until frost, protect plants if needed.

With any luck you will have an abundant tomato harvest by late summer.

Hummingbird Nectar

by Webster Arboretum

Our recommendations for making Hummingbird Nectar and building a Hummingbird friendly garden.

Hummingbird

Making nectar for hummingbirds is straightforward, safe, and effective if you follow a few key guidelines. It mimics the natural nectar they get from flowers and provides the energy Hummingbirds need.

Hummingbird Nectar Recipe

  • Ratio: Mix 1 part white granulated sugar to 4 parts water (e.g., 1 cup sugar to 4 cups water). This closely matches the 20–25% sugar concentration of natural flower nectar hummingbirds prefer.
  • Steps:
  1. Boil the water to kill any bacteria or mold spores.
  2. Stir in the sugar until fully dissolved.
  3. Let it cool to room temperature before filling your feeder.
  • Storage: Store extra nectar in a clean container in the fridge for up to 1 week. Shake or stir before using.

What to Avoid

  • No Substitutes: Don’t use honey (it ferments and can grow harmful bacteria), brown sugar, artificial sweeteners, or molasses (they lack proper nutrients and may harm birds).
  • No Red Dye: It’s unnecessary and potentially toxic. Hummingbirds are drawn to the red color of the feeder itself (like your saucer-style feeder with yellow ports).
  • No Additives: Skip flavorings, vitamins, or other additives. Hummingbirds get protein and micronutrients from insects in your garden (e.g., from Blazing Star or New England Aster).

Feeder Tips for Webster, NY

  • Frequency: Refill every 2–3 days, even if it’s not empty, to keep nectar fresh. In summer heat (July–August in Webster), check daily—nectar spoils faster above 80°F.
  • Cleaning: Clean the feeder every refill with a 1:10 vinegar-water solution (e.g., 1 tablespoon white vinegar to 10 tablespoons water). Rinse thoroughly. Mold or fermentation can cause tongue infections in hummingbirds, which can be fatal.
  • Amount: For one feeder in a small garden, 1 cup of nectar (1/4 cup sugar + 1 cup water) is enough per batch. Ruby-throated Hummingbirds consume about 1–2 teaspoons daily each, and you’ll likely attract 1–3 birds regularly.

Seasonal Notes

  • Spring (May): Hummingbirds arrive in Webster around May 1–10. Have fresh nectar ready by late April to welcome them.
  • Fall (September): They leave by mid-September. Keep nectar out until you don’t see birds for a week—late migrants might stop by.
  • Winter: Remove and store the feeder after they’re gone to prevent freezing damage.

Hummingbird Nectar Troubleshooting

  • Not Drinking?: Ensure the feeder is near flowers. Check for mold or spoiled nectar. If it’s new, give birds a week to find it.
  • Too Many Birds?: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds are territorial. If fighting occurs, add a second feeder 10–15 ft away to reduce competition.
  • Insects?: If you notice ants or bees at the feeder, use an ant moat (a water-filled barrier) or bee guards on the ports. Your saucer-style feeder typically has these features.

Creating a Hummingbird Friendly Garden

Plant Selection

For our example, we’re using native plants ideal for Zone 6a, chosen for nectar production, tubular flowers, and appeal to Ruby-throated Hummingbirds. They’re grouped by bloom time to ensure nectar from May to September. All are perennials unless noted and suited to a small space (approximately 10×10 ft.), in an area of yard providing sun to partial shade.

  • Early Spring (April–May):
    • Wild Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis): Red-yellow tubular flowers, 1–2 ft tall, shade-tolerant, self-seeds. Plant 5–7 for a cluster.
  • Summer (June–August):
    • Bee Balm (Monarda didyma, ‘Jacob Cline’): Bright red, 2–4 ft tall, sun-loving, mildew-resistant. Plant 3–5.
    • Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis): Deep red, 2–4 ft, prefers moist soil, partial shade OK. Plant 3–5.
    • Blazing Star (Liatris spicata): Purple spikes, 2–3 ft, attracts insects (hummingbird food). Plant 5–7.
  • Late Summer/Fall (August–September):
    • Scarlet Sage (Salvia coccinea): Red, 1–2 ft, sun, blooms until frost if deadheaded. Annual but self-seeds. Plant 5–7.
    • New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae): Purple, 2–3 ft, supports late-season insects. Plant 3–5.

Non-Native Option (for variety):

  • Fuchsia (hanging basket): Colorful, pendulous, 1–2 ft, shade-tolerant, annual in Zone 6a. Use 1–2 baskets.

Why These?:

  • Natives support local ecology and are low-maintenance. These species are deer-resistant (common in Webster) and thrive in local clay-loam soils with minimal amendments.
  • Staggered blooms cover the hummingbird season (May–September).
  • Compact sizes fit a small garden while providing bold color clusters.

Garden Layout

Our example layout maximizes nectar visual appeal, and hummingbird comfort. Adjust based on your yard’s exact shape or shade.

  • Back Row (along fence or edge):
    • 3 Bee Balm (center, for height and red pop).
    • 2 Cardinal Flowers (flanking Bee Balm, for moist spots or partial shade).
  • Middle Row:
    • 5 Wild Columbine (early blooms, shade-tolerant, spread evenly).
    • 3 Blazing Star (mixed in, for insect attraction).
  • Front Row:
    • 5 Scarlet Sage (low-growing, bright red, long-blooming).
    • 3 New England Aster (for late-season nectar and insects).
    • Feeder: Hang 1 saucer-style feeder, 4–5 ft high near Bee Balm, in partial shade to slow nectar spoilage.
    • Perch: Add a small Redbud tree (Cercis canadensis, 6–10 ft at maturity) in a corner or just outside the 10×10 plot for perching/nesting. Alternatively, use a shepherd’s hook with a dead branch.
    • Water: Place a shallow birdbath (1–2 inches deep) with a dripper or mister in the center or a corner. Refresh water every 2 days.

Setup and Maintenance

  • Soil Prep: Test soil (kits at local nurseries like The Garden Factory in Rochester). Add compost to clay soils for drainage. Most plants tolerate Webster’s soil but prefer pH 6.0–7.0.
  • Planting: Plant in spring (mid-May) after the last frost. Space plants 12–18 inches apart (per nursery tags). Water deeply after planting.
  • Watering: Keep soil moist but not soggy, especially for Cardinal Flower. Use drip irrigation or hand-water 1–2 times weekly (more in July heat).
  • Mulching: Apply 2 inches of shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it 1 inch from stems.
  • Feeder Care: Use 1:4 sugar-water (1 cup sugar to 4 cups water, boiled, cooled). Clean feeder every 2–3 days with 1:10 vinegar-water to prevent mold. Refill before it empties to keep hummingbirds visiting.
  • Pruning: Deadhead Scarlet Sage and Bee Balm to extend blooms. Cut back perennials in late fall after frost.
  • Winter: Mulch perennials in November to protect roots. Store Fuchsia indoors or treat as an annual. Remove/clean feeder after hummingbirds leave (mid-September).

Local Tips for Webster

  • Migration Timing: Ruby-throated Hummingbirds arrive ~May 1–10 and depart ~September 10–20. Have feeders and Columbine ready by late April; keep Scarlet Sage and feeders up until late September for stragglers.
  • Nurseries: Visit our list of local plant sources. Many carry natives like Bee Balm and Columbine.
  • Pests: Deer are common; all listed plants are deer-resistant. Watch for slugs on Cardinal Flower (use diatomaceous earth). Avoid pesticides to protect hummingbirds and their insect prey.
  • Community: Join Rochester’s Native Plant Society or Cornell Cooperative Extension (Monroe County) for free advice. They offer workshops on pollinator gardens.

Sample Schedule

  • April: Prep soil, buy plants, set up feeder by May 1.
  • May: Plant, water regularly, monitor for hummingbirds.
  • June–August: Deadhead, clean feeder, refresh birdbath.
  • September: Keep feeder up until birds leave, mulch for winter.

Budget Estimate (DIY, Small Garden)

  • Plants: ~$100–150 (25 plants at $4–$6 each from local nurseries).
  • Feeder: $20–30 (e.g., Aspects HummZinger).
  • Birdbath: $30–50 (basic with dripper).
  • Mulch/Compost: $20–30.
  • Total: ~$200–260, one-time cost (perennials last years).

Why This Works

  • Compact: Fits a 10×10 ft space, with dense planting for bold color.
  • Low-Maintenance: Natives thrive in Zone 6a with minimal care.
  • Hummingbird Magnet: Red tubular flowers, a feeder, and a mister hit all their needs—nectar, protein (via insects), water, and perches.
  • Eco-Friendly: Supports pollinators and local wildlife.

Planting Dahlias

by Webster Arboretum

With their stunning and long lasting blooms, Dahlias are a stunning addition to any garden. The middle of May is prime planting time for dahlias, as the last frost has passed (typically early May in Webster), and soil temperatures are above 60°F—perfect for these tender perennials.

1. Planting

  • Timing: Plant now (mid-May) to ensure blooms by late summer (July–September). Dahlias need warm soil (60°F+), and nighttime temps should stay above 50°F, which they are in Webster this time of year.
  • Starting: Use tubers (not seeds) for faster results. Look for firm tubers with visible “eyes” (growth points).
  • Soil: Dahlias need well-drained, loamy soil (pH 6.5–7.0). Webster’s clay-heavy soil benefits from mixing in compost and sand or perlite. Dig a hole 6–8 inches deep, lay the tuber horizontally with the eye facing up, and cover with 2 inches of soil. As the sprout grows, gradually fill the hole.
  • Spacing: Space tubers 1–2 ft apart (1 ft for dwarfs, 2 ft for larger varieties). Plant 1–2 tubers to avoid overcrowding.

2. Watering and Feeding

  • Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not soggy—about 1 inch per week. Water at the base to avoid wetting leaves, reducing powdery mildew risk (common in Webster’s humid summers). Once established, dahlias are somewhat drought-tolerant but don’t let them dry out completely.
  • Mulching: Add 2 inches of straw or shredded bark mulch to retain moisture and keep soil cool. Keep mulch away from stems to prevent rot.
  • Fertilizing:
  • At planting: Mix in a low-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 5-10-10) to promote blooms over foliage.
  • Monthly: Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) or compost tea until blooming starts (July). Too much nitrogen causes leafy growth at the expense of flowers.

3. Support and Pruning

  • Staking: Most dahlias (except dwarfs) need support, as stems can snap in summer storms. Install a 4–6 ft stake or cage at planting time. Tie stems loosely with garden twine as they grow.
  • Pinching: When plants reach 12–18 inches tall (around June), pinch the top growth above the fourth set of leaves. This encourages bushier growth and more blooms.
  • Deadheading: Remove spent flowers weekly to promote continuous blooming through September. Cut back to the nearest set of leaves.

4. Pest and Disease Management

  • Slugs: Slugs love tender dahlia shoots. Use your grapefruit traps near dahlias, and add a ring of diatomaceous earth around the base. Hand-pick at dusk if needed.
  • Other Pests: Watch for aphids (spray with insecticidal soap) and spider mites (increase humidity, use neem oil). Japanese beetles may appear in July—hand-pick or use row covers.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew thrives in humid conditions. Ensure good air circulation (don’t overcrowd), and apply a sulfur-based fungicide if needed. Avoid overhead watering.

5. Overwintering in Webster

  • Frost Timing: Dahlias are tender and won’t survive Webster’s winter (lows to -10°F). First frost hits ~October 5–15.
  • Digging Tubers: After frost blackens foliage, cut stems to 4 inches, dig up tubers, and brush off soil (don’t wash). Dry them for 1–2 days in a garage or shed.
  • Storage: Store tubers in a box with peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust at 40–50°F (e.g., a cool basement). Check monthly for rot; mist lightly if they shrivel. Replant next May.

6. Local Tips

  • Weather: May is rainy (3–4 inches average). Ensure good drainage to prevent tuber rot. July–August heat (80–85°F) will boost growth if you keep soil moist.
  • Community: Cornell Cooperative Extension of Monroe County (585-461-1000) can provide soil testing to optimize your dahlia bed.

Quick Timeline

  • May 14: Plant tubers, stake, water well.
  • June: Pinch tops, fertilize, monitor slugs.
  • July–September: Deadhead, water, enjoy blooms.
  • October: Dig and store tubers after frost.

Those Pesky Squirrels

by Webster Arboretum

Nothing raises a bird watchers blood pressure like seeing a squirrel dangle upside down on the side of a bird feeder while gorging itself on expensive seed.

If the squirrels aren’t pigging out on bird seed they’re digging holes in your garden in search of tasty bulbs and uprooting plants along the way.

The more your yard resembles a smorgasbord, the larger the number of unwanted visitors you will have.

Luckily there are a few things you can do to make your property less of a Happy Meal.

Plants that Squirrels dislike.

Alliums
Daffodils
Fritillaries
Marigolds
Mint
Nasturtiums

You won’t see a lot of squirrels chomping on daffodil bulbs. Daffodil bulbs contain a toxic alkaloid called lycorine that is harmful to squirrels, other rodents, and humans.

Apparently the bulbs of Fritillaries have an unpleasant flavor, so squirrels tend to leave them alone.

Alliums, Marigolds, Narturtiums, and Mint all have scents that squirrels find to be repugnant. Consider planting them in proximity to vulnerable plants.

Over the years, we’ve purchased a wide variety of bird feeders. Some more squirrel proof than others. Durability has been an issue. Our existing tube feeders have become jammed up and no longer return to the open position after a squirrel departs. They have also become susceptible to moisture. Squirrels have also chewed threw springs and end caps of various feeders.

We’ve just purchased a new feeder that purports to be squirrel proof. We’ll let you know how it goes.